My first and last love will always be the barrel, and boy have I been spending a lot of time inside my sweetheart this week. The bay has been going off it's rocker! Without a charter boat in site for two weeks we are starting to wonder what's been going on. In the last week I have probably claimed over 50 proper barrels and ridden 100's of waves. View a short video on youtube!
The story over here has been miraculous mornings and stormy sunsets. The past few days have had crazy tempest style storms in the afternoon/evening, but all of them have faded out by the morning. Usually they leave a little bump on the surf, but with no other surfers in the bay but Ross and I, we have the luxury of sleeping in, eating a nice breakfast, and then getting psyched up to paddle out. Yesterday I surfed for 7 hours straight. I finally got a couple nice scratches from the reef that have been well overdue. After a massive meal I was left lying in bed, aching a bit, but laughing like a hyena at the ridiculous waves we scored with no one around . Suffice it to say I was ONE STOKED BLOKE.
I'll put another update soon about the garden and life in general, but for now all I can think about is tubes, double-ups, shacks, pits, slots, and spits!!!!
Hi honey, Great to hear you're doing well. If your "first love" is scratching you up a bit (coral), perhaps you should wear some protection (a wet suit). What were you thinking?!!:)
ReplyDeleteErica has finished her finals and is coming home this week. So far she has 2 A's and is waiting for the grades from the other 2 classes. We miss you and love you and are thrilled to see you so happy. Love, Mom
And I thought life was good in our bay... is it possible that you will get burnt out on all those shackzillas? Keep up the stories and I am glad you are enjoying life son!
ReplyDeleteYes and we your fans want to know "WHATS UP?" Give me a call!
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